Day 77-80: Arica and Iquique, Chile
Sometime on our way back to Arequipa I made the rash decision to skip Bolivia and return to Argentina through the north of Chile. I took an overnight bus to the border, hopped in a taxi, and made my way to the beach town of Arica. I spent the morning relaxing on the beach before food poisoning or the flu decided to grace me with its presence - I will spare you the details of the hours spent in the beach bathroom thinking I was about to die. The next day I headed to another beach town to recover from my sickness. Iquique’s nickname is the Miami of Chile and after walking around and spending hours on the beach, I would completely agree. The water is Caribbean blue and the sun sets perfectly over the ocean. I decided to give myself another mini vacation and spent three days enjoying the simplicity of sunshine and salt water.
Warning: the complaining starts here.
Day 81-82: Jujuy, Argentina

My first day back in the wonderful country that I call home was spent on what was supposed to be a 16 hour bus ride but turned into a 22 hour bus ride. We were delayed for an hour because of a flat tire then five
god damn hours at the border. Once we finally crossed the imaginary line that divides la Cordillera de los Andes, I fell into a deep sleep waking up with the inability to hear out of one of my ears. Now I wish I could tell you what had happened other than the assumption that elevation change and salt water blocked sound waves from entering my ear, but when I went to the doctor (that I had to pay for before getting seen) they checked my vital signs then said “we don’t have the tool to look in your ear but you could try chewing some gum.” I spent a few seconds trying to figure out if I understood correctly, then a few more trying to figure out if they were joking, then making the realization that they were completely serious.
Day 83-85: Salta, Argentina.
After a few days my ear finally cleared and I rejoined the world of normal hearing people but I also ran into another problem: one of my credit cards had charges that were not mine. I spent my first day in the beautiful city of Salta, running around in an overdramatic and chaotic manner trying to figuring out what to do and get an argentine phone. I cannot tell you how many times I muttered as if this day couldn’t get any worse. Eventually, I gave up and tried to enjoy the beautiful churches and quiet plazas of Salta. The next day, to get away from the problems that were piling up, I took a tour to see the world’s second largest salt flats and the northern cities. Basically, I spent thirteen hours on a bus to spend half an hour at the salt flats but was it worth it? Yes. They were incredible. Of course, being the most ridiculous person I know, I had to taste the salt (do not recommend) and wander off as far as I could, delaying my bus and forming a search party. We also visited Argentina’s rainbow mountain; color wise more impressive than Peru’s but significantly less satisfying hike wise.
I spent my last morning here running around the city and visiting the Museum of Archeology of la Alta Montana. It gives you an in-depth look at the Incan civilization (which is incredibly impressive and by far larger than the ancient civilizations of Central America) and has mummies. In the museums secret vaults, they have three different child mummies, but for conservation reasons, they only show one at a time. Very cool.
Day 86-87: Tucuman, Argentina.
I wish I could say my luck had gotten better but after waking up a few days in a row with fresh bug bites, I searched my bag and found bed bugs. I threw a temper tantrum then got to work washing, disinfecting, and spraying everything I own.
I made a friend in my hostel and we spent the following day wandering through the city. We ended up eating lunch at a vegetarian buffet and I can’t tell you how many plates of food I ate but it was probably too many. Afterwards, we walked to the movie theater to see what was playing only to be handed free tickets to Moses and the Ten Commandments. Moses was a hunk that got all the ladies and god was portrayed as a flaming tornado. We concluded that the film was actually an Israeli propaganda film to subconsciously persuade the people of Latin America to support Israel in the Israeli Palestinian conflict. Upon leaving the movie theater, we were pulled aside for a filmed interview. Not being religious but also not wanting to be insulting, my responses were something like “good images, very good themes, very religious.”
Day 88-90: La Rioja, Argentina.
After realizing that I had no idea what to do in La Rioja, the owner of my hostel invited me to go with him to the mountains for the afternoon. He took me around, stopping every ten minutes to show me a viewpoint or a rock formation or something then would give me a boatload of information and continue. To his surprise, I asked him if this was actually a tour and that didn’t go over too well. He was very insulted that I thought I was going to have to pay for his generosity and in full machismo fashion, made a point to pay for everything from then on. Feeling bad, I agreed to go dancing with him later that night. He got schwastey and I ended up walking home early to the comfort of my new friends at the hostel.
A day to relax then the inevitable journey to Argentina’s Grand Canyon. The bus ride out there was probably one of the most memorable of my entire travels; a river had flooded and was flowing over a bridge. After watching a man walk across, scanning the water for things that would make it impassable, the bus crossed the overflowing bridge. A while later, we were at the front doors to the park, only to be told that the park was closed due to rains (which only happens once or twice a year) and we were now stranded in the middle of nowhere. Not wanting to waste my last day, I began hitchhiking to another park with similar, but smaller canyons. It didn’t take long for a man driving across Argentina to pick me up. I ended up at El Chiflon and was given a guided tour by Paco who clearly knew nothing about the formations other than do you see that rock? Can you see the face in it? But it was beautiful and absolutely worth it. After the tour, an argentine family gave me a ride to the next town and I was on my way back to La Rioja.


In a few hours I will be home in Mendoza, unable to comprehend where the time has gone. It has been an incredible three months and I wouldn’t change them for the world (apart from the getting sick or dealing with bed bugs).
Besitos.